Winter was too long for me, and I didn't manage to get an early spring hiking trip in this year. So, understandably, I was antsy to go backcountry paddling, and I eagerly fired off a "can I come, please please please please?" message when I saw Hart post a trip for the May 1st weekend. Hart said yes, and he said yes to a whole bunch of other people too, but they didn't all show up when the weather forecast made it hard to distinguish lake and not-lake.
Seven of us were tough enough (or dumb enough?) to show up despite the gloom and rain predictions. Sam, when asked why, said something like "because I've never been on a trip May first", and Stef was itching to take that brand-new kevlar boat on its first voyage. Hart has bad weather luck, apparently, and must expect lousy weather if he posts a trip. Brad, Laura and Sarka have been doing the skiing thing with Five Winds all winter, and I guess have developed greater cold tolerance than the average person...
We met in Honey Harbour, at Picnic Island Marina. Our plan was to paddle from there along the east side of Beausoleil to eventually reach the outlet of McCrae Lake. Hart had thought that perhaps we could line that stream to make it into the lake, where we'd set up camp for a night.
The lining was not, of course, meant to be. Not when all of you are paddling glass or kevlar boats that cost a fortune and some stupidity with a rope could result in a loud crunch and the sound of more than $3000 becoming inoperable. So we carried. It wasn't far, but it wasn't good terrain and it was very, very wet.
Those who insist on constantly comparing kayaks and canoes never get tired of telling you how stupid sea kayaks are to portage. They're right, that craft was not meant to be portaged. Not fully loaded, not empty, not at all. Kayaks excel at many things, and I love my boat, but I would want an ABS canoe for the stream at the mouth of McCrae, and a kevlar canoe for the portage. Can't have everything, though, and we grunted our seven boats over the rocks.
I'd never been to McCrae Lake. I hear so many people who are, by and large, car campers tell me they're heading there on summer weekends. I've seen pictures full of coolers, lawnchairs and even screened in huts that were taken at McCrae. I've heard complaints of loud music and crowding. Why would I go there in summer? But I still wanted to see it, so I thought maybe at this time of year, it would be ok. It was early, the weather was absolutely miserable, and still there were at least three other parties on the lake! What must this place be like on the August long weekend?
The lake itself is, of course, beautiful. Or seems to be, from what I could see from my vantage point under a tarp the rest of that day. But it looked like every spot that could possibly be a campsite had been turned into one - as were many that should never have been used that way. Our island had no understory in the bush, and we found bits of garbage all over it. Broken beer bottles, at least four bizarre thunderbox attempts - it just looked overused.
I guess it's not surprising. It's crown land, camping is permitted, there are no fees or reservations, access is easy, and it's very close to the major urban areas. By and large, I'm not a fan of turning everything into a park so you can control access and thus force people to play the ridiculous game that is the reservation system under Ontario Parks. I don't mind paying the fees, I'm not one to whine that I'm not getting my money's worth (I'm actually convinced that, if you put in a park administration, backcountry camping is sure to be run at a loss). But parks do have a definite purpose. They prevent disasters like this from happening - this was more dense than the busiest parts of Algonquin. Apparently, it's much cleaner than it has been in the past due to the Friends of McCrae. Still, I never actually felt like I was backcountry camping on this trip.
Commentary on the lake itself aside, though, I can't think of a better bunch of people to spend a wet, cold weekend with. As soon as we got to the site, Hart started collecting pitch and made a fire. Stef got to work on a tarp, and immediately had Hart and others working on the project. We got our tents up, sat under the tarp, and drank hot chocolate and brandy courtesy of Sarka (and Brad had cookies! and fudge!).
The rain turned to misty drizzle for about two hours that afternoon. Most of our group got back into their wet gear and went for a paddle. Sam, Laura and I opted to hold down the fort - with Sam's beer... We tried to dry things by the fire (I know, I know, never a good idea - but all of my stuff was carefully monitored. I couldn't stand the thought of putting on sopping wet stuff the next day when it was cold already).
And that's how I spent my time... under a tarp, by the fire, and exploring the island (and finding a bit more firewood while doing so).
Now, don't get me wrong - I had a lot of fun on this trip. I enjoyed it. The credit for that does not, however, go to either the weather or the location, but to my companions. I am always amazed by GLSKA paddlers - the ones I've tripped with are generally a relaxed, enjoyable bunch of people who don't ever let adverse conditions get to them. They can have fun on cold, rainy nights, and laugh about how much worse it could be.
The next morning, I got up to find Hart and Brad had already made a fire. I drank my coffee, and slowly others emerged. Hart, however, chose to go back to bed, and wait for a break in the weather. So there was more tarp sitting, and firewood gathering. By 11, we had that break (it stopped raining for 20 minutes), and packed up and launched.
So, a little bit of paddling, a lot of beastly portaging, and then a whole bunch more paddling. Sunday was miserably cold, and the portaging made me wet, but I stayed warm as long as I paddled. I didn't realize just how cold it was until my hands were bare when I unloaded my boat at the car. Then I felt really tough (if it's possible to feel tough while whimpering).
I mean, look at this weather summary of Sunday afternoon! We paddled in that... weather conditions not available in that graphic - I can tell you the icon should be pouring rain. But we did it, we managed to enjoy it, and I'm more convinced than ever that I paddle with some of the best trippers out there. The next trip will be better, but I have no regrets about this one either. Thanks Hart! (And those of you who wimped out... maybe you were warm, maybe you were dry, but I had more fun!)